A Day In Little Haiti

Map pran yon lòd griyo,” says a man in Kreyol Flavor, a restaurant on Church Avenue. He’s placing an order for griot, a traditional Haitian dish of fried pork, which comes with rice and beans. This Brooklyn takeout restaurant is crowded with customers, and many are ordering the griot, a local favorite.

Church Avenue is busy on this particular day, with crowds of people running in and out of the grocery stores and restaurants. Neon palm trees glow outside the shops, despite the cold winter weather. There are many takeout eateries like Kreyol, although none seem quite as busy as this one.

“This is one of the most popular spots,” says Claudia Fichera, a customer. “Anything you order here is good. The stewed goat, the chicken dishes—it’s honestly all delicious.”

Annie, a Haitian immigrant from the city of Cap-Haïtien, is another customer waiting for her order of oxtail soup, debating politics while she leans against the counter.

“I don’t care about the news,” she says. “People in this country have opinions about where I come from, but how many of them have actually been there? See it before you speak on it.”

Making Brooklyn their home

Located in Flatbush, Little Haiti is home to one of the largest concentrations of Haitians in the United States. According to the Haitian Centers Council (HCC) in Brooklyn, approximately 190,000 Haitians live in New York State, with a vast majority of them residing in this very neighborhood.

“Haitians here often work in healthcare, particularly as nurses and caregivers, contributing significantly to the sector,” says Dr. Andre Peck, M.D., executive director of Haitian Centers Council. “Others are entrepreneurs who run small businesses, restaurants and retail shops.”

The neighborhood itself was recognized as Little Haiti by the New York City Council in 2018, and it represents one part of a larger Caribbean community that includes Jamaicans, Trinidadians and Tobagonians, Barbadians and more. Culturally, however, Little Haiti has existed in Brooklyn for decades.

Many of the original Haitian immigrants came to the United States in the 1950s, fleeing the dictatorship of François Duvalier, a physician who was elected to power in 1957. Duvalier cracked down on dissidents and declared himself Haiti’s “President for Life” in 1964. He served until his death in 1971.

Duvalier’s rule left much of Haiti in economic poverty, forcing many Haitians to leave the country out of physical danger and economic hardship. New York City eventually became their home through opportunities like asylum, visas or temporary protected status (TPS), which continues today.

Grilling food on the street of Little Haiti.

Explore new flavors

Shaniqua Gibson works as a server at DjonDjon, a restaurant at the corner of Nostrand Avenue and Hawthorne Street. The restaurant has colorful artwork on the walls, along with a modern Bohemian vibe.

“Little Haiti is a very nice neighborhood,” says Gibson. “It has problems like you’ll find anywhere, but there’s a lot of good food, like griot and tassot, and music, like compas and mizik raisin, around here. Haitians bring a lot to the area.”

At DjonDjon, she recommends the milo burger, a chicken sandwich marinated in creole seasoning. Other popular options include the kafou wings tossed in a kreyol sauce and the tinono griot sandwich, which includes fried pork, kreyol aioli and pikliz (a spicy pickled vegetable condiment similar to coleslaw).

La Baguette Shop is a ten-minute walk from DjonDjon. This unassuming Haitian and French bakery on Church Avenue lures people in with the aroma of fresh bread and pastries. With 11 locations around the northeast, they’re a popular spot, offering traditional items, such as a variety of breads and beverages, along with patties filled with chicken, beef, salt fish or smoked herring. The bakery, despite its modest size, is is crowded.

Throughout Little Haiti, it’s typical to stumble on large black grills purposefully situated next to restaurants and street corners. These grills are common in Haitian culture, and they are often the best way for the people to cook many of the traditional chicken, pork and fish dishes. Despite the large amounts of smoke, these grills are popular spots to grab street food and socialize with friends around the neighborhood.

Street art in Little Haiti.

Appreciate art without a museum

Outside of DjonDjon, a mural covers the entire wall. It’s a hyperrealistic piece featuring a woman draped in colorful fabric and sparkling gold bracelets with jewels in her hair. The artist, muralist Damien Mitchell, is one of many who have chosen this Flatbush neighborhood to demonstrate their talent.

“The artist actually lives in Australia,” says Gibson. “He comes back to New York often, and he likes to touch up his painting now and then. He was here just last week, actually.”

One of the most famous artists to come out of this neighborhood is Jean-Michel Basquiat, who was raised by a Haitian father and Puerto Rican mother. Much of the work around Little Haiti and Flatbush reflects Basquiat’s vivid colors and graffiti style.  Bright, colorful murals are a common sight here.

Places like The Rogers Garden, a cocktail bar, also reflect this community’s dedication to art. At the corner of Rogers Avenue and Lenox Road, this lively watering hole features vibrant murals on the fencing around its outdoor dance space. The artwork depicts various symbols of peace, love, nature and people, an example of the neighborhood’s personality.

Understanding the challenges

“Haitian immigrants and Haitian Americans face several challenges here in New York,” says Peck of HCC. “Many work in low-wage sectors, leading to economic instability. They often have trouble accessing affordable housing, and language barriers and healthcare disparities make things worse.”

As a result, Haitian Americans have played an active role in Flatbush politics.

“They are involved in advocacy, politics and education, helping to uplift immigrants and underserved communities all over New York City,” Peck explains. “Haitians, like many immigrant groups, often face racism and xenophobia, which can impact their social and professional opportunities.”

National politics have thrust Haitians into the spotlight recently, and topics around immigration elicit emotion on all sides of the political discussion. But this is not that article. This is an article about connections and perseverance, a point Peck makes well.

“This neighborhood tells a story of resilience and immigration,” he says. “It provides a deeper understanding of Haitian contributions to American history and culture.”

Visiting Little Haiti

Serving food with a smile

New York City has hundreds of communities and cultures to experience, and Little Haiti is a particularly unique place to visit. The language, music and food provide an experience not seen on many other city blocks. While Flatbush is not particularly convenient for New York City day trippers and tourists; there is so much to see and do.

If you’re looking for a particularly fun day to go, May 18 is Haitian Flag Day, and there are parades, music and food on the streets of Nostrand Avenue.

Or, simply visit when you have some time; there is much to see and do in Little Haiti. It’s a one-of-a-kind experience that’s just a short drive away. Explore, observe and learn something new. A sandwich at DjonDjon is a great place to start.