Under the Surface

A teen’s guide to skincare

By Sophie Abt    

Artwork by Molly McGarvey

For us teens, navigating breakouts, skincare products and routines can feel like decoding a secret language. Breakouts seem to appear unpredictably, products promise miracles and social media is full of conflicting advice. TikTok videos and Instagram reels often showcase magical cures or new routines, but separating fact from hype is challenging. So what really works—and what’s just a trend that may do more harm than good?

To find out, we spoke with Dr. David Bank, director of the Center for Dermatology, Cosmetic and Laser Surgery in Mount Kisco, and Dana Protomastro, a nurse practitioner and owner of Thrive Wellness + Aesthetics, also in Mount Kisco, about acne, common mistakes and what teens should know about caring for their skin.

The what, why and how of breakouts

Not all blemishes are created equal. “Breakouts are temporary, while acne is a chronic skin condition,” says Blank.

“Breakouts are usually a reaction to temporary triggers,” explains Protomastro, and they can be influenced by daily habits and skincare routines, such as over-washing, using harsh scrubs or not properly cleansing the skin. “These are common mistakes,” Protomastro explains. “Teens often need to make sure they fully remove makeup at the end of the day and may skip regular cleansing altogether. Either way, consistency is what matters most.” She encourages teens to understand what can cause breakouts, including the following:

• Dirty items touching your skin (phone screens, pillowcases, hats, sports helmets can harbor bacteria)
• Friction (“acne mechanica”): tight clothing, chin straps, backpacks or helmets rubbing on the skin
• Hair products (these can transfer onto the forehead)    
• Humidity and heat (can increase oil production and sweating, creating more clogged pores)
• Pollution (dirt and toxins in the air can settle on the skin and contribute to inflammation)
• Seasonal changes (skin can become oilier in summer or more irritated/dry in winter, both of which can trigger breakouts)
• Sports, sweat and sunscreen, depending on activity level and environment
• Touching your face or picking at blemishes
• Water quality (hard water can sometimes irritate or leave residue on the skin)

Bank explains that “acne” is technically the medical term for the condition, and it includes everything from blackheads to the most severe, deep cystic acne. ‘Breakouts’ is more of a colloquial term people use; it’s not the same as acne.” Understanding the difference can help prevent overreacting (and overtreating) with harsh or unnecessary products. Acne develops when pores become clogged due to increased oil production, dead skin cells and bacteria, often driven by hormonal changes during the teen years. Bank notes that this condition affects “at least 85 percent of people between the ages of 10 and 20,” and it can appear on the face, neck, back, chest and upper arms. Protomastro emphasizes that over-treating skin or using aggressive products can make any breakout worse. Instead, she recommends you create a gentle, consistent skincare routine.

Diet can also influence your skin’s appearance, and while cutting out some foods can help, it’s not a cure-all. “Low-sugar diets may help some, but it’s not the same for everyone,” Bank explains. Protomastro encourages teens to focus on consuming the following foods:

• healthy fats (avocado, nuts, olive oil)
• lean proteins (chicken, fish, eggs, plant-based)
• low glycemic carbs (oats, quinoa, sweet potatoes)
• plenty of vegetables and antioxidant-rich fruits

She also recommends limiting gluten, dairy and excess sugar when possible. Processed foods and sugary drinks can trigger oil production and inflammation in some individuals, making acne and breakouts harder to manage.

Lifestyle habits also play a role. Sleep, stress management and exercise all support skin health. “Consistency and gentle care matter most,” Protomastro says. In other words, don’t underestimate how sleep deprivation, stress, and irregular sleep and eating patterns can impact your skin.

Myths, misconceptions and what actually works

Unfortunately, we’re often misled by social media influencers (who are, ahem, often not experts), viral trends, expensive products or “natural remedies” that may actually irritate the skin. “It’s the ingredients that matter, not the price,” Bank says. “Some natural products can actually cause inflammation or dryness.” And while it may seem like common sense that the more you scrub, the more you’ll clean your pores and/or the more you moisturize, the less dry skin you’ll have, that’s not actually the case.

So what’s the solution? Protomastro emphasizes gentle, consistent routines. “Focus on cleaning your skin properly, twice daily, with the right products,” she emphasizes. Protomastro also warns against overloading your skin with multiple treatments at once, which can disrupt the skin barrier and worsen breakouts. A basic teen skincare routine should include a gentle cleanser, targeted pimple treatment, a lightweight moisturizer and daily sunscreen. And while washing twice a day is sufficient for most teens, Protomastro suggests washing after workouts or intense sweating.

You should also resist the temptation to pick at blemishes. “Popping pimples spreads bacteria and can create scarring,” Bank explains. And don’t forget sun protection—our experts note that it’s often overlooked but crucial. “Even teens should use sunscreen daily,” Bank says. UV exposure can worsen acne scarring, increase redness and accelerate premature aging.

Once the basics are in place, additional treatments can help manage breakouts. Protomastro notes that gently exfoliating a few times a week and using spot treatments can make a difference. “Start with the basics and add extra care only if needed,” she says.

“Good skin starts with healthy habits,” Bank adds. He recommends treating blemishes with proven ingredients such as benzoyl peroxide or salicylic acid, as well as products like Differin. “Use the highest concentration your skin can handle without irritation,” he says. If you’re not sure what your skin can handle, consult a professional to avoid irritation or damage.

And if anyone, including parents, tells you to just ‘wait it out,’ the experts recommend you trust your gut instead. In reality, untreated acne can be due to long-term inflammation, and it can also cause scarring. Early intervention, including using the right products and developing proper habits, makes a difference. “Ask for help early,” Protomastro advises.

If over-the-counter products aren’t doing the trick and your dermatologist recommends something like retinol or micro-needling, just know it might make breakouts worse at first—but your skin should improve over time. “A lot of treatments cause the skin to purge at first,” Protomastro explains, “but that’s actually a good sign.”

When to see a professional

Severe, painful or scarring acne, large cysts, widespread breakouts, or acne that is affecting your self-confidence or mental health should be evaluated by a dermatologist or skincare specialist. Proper treatments serve two purposes: they can prevent long-term damage, and they can boost confidence.

Professional help can include topical or oral medications, in-office procedures and guidance for a safe and effective skincare routine. It’s best to be prepared before you go. At your first visit, they’ll ask questions about where your acne shows up, how long you’ve had it, how often breakouts occur and what types of blemishes you experience. Be as specific as you can; this information will help them determine the right treatment for you. They’ll also go over your skincare routine, lifestyle and any past treatments. Be honest here as well—they’ve seen and heard it all. That weird burn from trying to treat a blemish with toothpaste? They’ve seen it (your parents probably did it, too). The breakout after mummifying yourself at night? They’ll likely nod their head and calmly explain that’s what happens when you trap bacteria on your face. No need to be embarrassed. All of these details help them figure out the best plan for you.

Whether they decide prescription creams, oral medications or professional treatments are right for you, do as they recommend. Most people start to see results in a few weeks, but it can take a few months for more significant changes.

Skincare is self-care

Remember, consistency is key. “Clean your skin gently twice daily, moisturize as needed—it’s not the enemy, and always apply sunscreen,” Protomastro says. “Simple, consistent habits will get you better results than chasing trends. I wish every teen knew that they need to clean their skin properly and be patient with results.” And implement some basic habits to prevent breakouts, including washing pillowcases weekly, keeping your hair away from your face and using gentle makeup removers.

Sticking to a consistent skincare routine can help you feel more in control of your skin, lower stress breakouts and build confidence that you’re taking care of yourself. “Understanding your skin and being patient with it is just as important as the products you use,” Protomastro says.

Skincare isn’t about perfection; it is about understanding your skin, taking care of it thoughtfully and knowing when to seek guidance. Above all, it’s self-care: taking care of your skin is taking care of you.

This article was edited by Julie Schwietert Collazo. It was fact-checked by Virna Sandler. The artist created a collage using sourced images and Adobe Creative Suite.

This article was published in the May/June 2026 edition of Connect to Northern Westchester.